Aladdin lamp how does it work

The cause for this is usually the flame spreader the small thimble shaped piece that sits in the center of the outer wick tube. Carefully remove the flame spreader, clean air holes if necessary, and replace it level with or just above the gallery. L arge spikes on the wick, causing black carbon spots on the mantle. The cause for this is your wick. Even small threads of the wick can cause spikes. Carefully clean the wick with your wick cleaner the small plastic disk.

If there are still small threads sticking up, use finger nail clippers to remove threads. Never use scissors to trim the wick, this causes many problems! It is very easy to trim unevenly or too much wick. O nly the bottom of the mantle is lit. Usually, the flame spreader the small thimble piece in the center of the outer wick tube is set too high. Carefully remove the flame spreader cleaning if necessary , and set it back in, making sure it at the same level or just a bit above the gallery.

It may take a few times to find the perfect level for your flame spreader. T he wick has many yellow spikes and the wick is hard to light. The most common cause of this problem is carbon build up on the wick. Try cleaning the wick with the wick cleaner. Also, your lamp may need to be refilled with kerosene, so the wick is soaking in kerosene.

Lox-On TM Chimneys tend to break because they were set into the gallery too tightly. There are three small tabs on the inside of the gallery that can be easily adjusted to accommodate the chimney. Why does it break? When glass heats up, it expands. If there is a tight spot or pressure point on the chimney, and the glass is expanding, it has nowhere to go.

The crack is always going to be at the tightest spot in the gallery. We recommend the chimney be loose and have a slight wobble to it. The heel-less chimney has a smooth bottom instead of tabs and fits into a heel-less gallery or a Lox-On gallery with heel-less adapter.

Do NOT use any type of fuel like kerosene — the flame is too close to the fuel and the whole thing could catch fire. You can add essential oils of your choice and also pieces of aromatic amber directly to the olive oil in your lamp.

Experiment with a few drops at first. Drafts of air around the flame will cause it to flicker. The drafts could be in the room or caused by the flame itself within the container. Sometimes a wick is too long or ragged and will draw more fuel than can be evenly handled and will cause flickering. Cold rooms can be a cause of flickering, as the difference in temperature inside and outside the jar may cause turbulent air exchanges. Sputtering is usually caused by water in the wick. When you clean the jar, make sure that it is completely dry before adding oil.

In humid conditions, water may condense from the air onto the inside of the jar. When this happens, you will probably need to change wicks. If the old wick has length left to it, wash it in soapy water, rinse it, blot it, and hang in a warm place to dry thoroughly.

Often an olive oil lamp will smoke because the wick needs trimmed. Smoking can also occur if the lamp is sitting in a draft or if it is making its own draft because of uneven drawing of air into the flame. It may also smoke if it has burned all of the oil that it can draw up to the burning height of the wick, and it will then begin to burn the wick instead of the oil.

Remove the metal wick holder and the wick from the lamp. Wipe the lamp with a piece of tissue or paper towel to remove as much oil as possible. Then wash the jar in warm, soapy water. Rinse the jar and blot it, and then let in a warm place to dry thoroughly. Do NOT add fuel if the inside of the font has any moisture! The wicks are flat because the opening in the burner is a U-shaped slot. As the wick is fed through the burner to the top, the wick is formed into a circle, making it round.

Look on the wick raiser. Take the burner out and look at the wick. If the wick has 2 tails and it round on the top, it is an Aladdin. You will not have a nice flame if the wick is not even. After feeding the wick into the burner, you can use a wick trimmer or very sharp scissors to trim the top of the wick to make it even the whole way around. It is probably the best and easiest to understand of the bunch. It can cover all of the Aladdin lamps, but most particularly all the side draft lamps from model 12 and newer.

You should only burn high quality clear K-1 kerosene. The less expensive K-2 kerosene has a higher sulfur content that creates a hard deposit on the burning surface of the wick and shortens the wick life.

Low sulfur K-1 burns without creating an odor. Scented and colored kerosene clogs a wick so that it no longer flows evenly. A partially clogged wick creates an uneven flame that prevents the mantle from burning properly. A clogged wick that will not burn correctly often looks just the same as a good condition used wick. The air burner's airflow to the wick is calibrated for high quality K-1 kerosene. Using another product will create an unbalanced air to fuel ratio.

Same goes with using a clogged or partially clogged wick. Purchase kerosene either in sealed containers or from a source that is pumped directly out a drum normally kept inside and sealed. Moisture can collect in kerosene stored in vented containers. Once in your lamp, water collects at the bottom of the lamp and in the wick where it creates an uneven flame. If purchasing K-1 kerosene from an open barrel, sniff the opening. Avoid kerosene with moderate to strong odors. A strong odor. Aladdin kerosene lamps were designed to be burned daily and provide long trouble free service with regular maintenance.

These days, most people only burn lamps occasionally or only during the winter season. Kerosene left in a standing lamp will go bad and clog the wick. The more volatile components of kerosene will evaporate leaving a smelly sludge behind that gets embedded in the wick. If you plan to go a while without burning the lamp, remove the burner, pour out the kerosene and let the wick dry in the open air before reassembling the lamp. Then add new kerosene at least 2 hours before trying to light the lamp.

An Aladdin wick is designed to be burned every evening for over a year before requiring replacement. If it is allowed to sit in evaporating kerosene over time or if the wrong grade of kerosene is used the wick life will be reduced considerably. Use the correct kerosene and replace the wick when it starts to burn unevenly after maintenance. Always strive to keep the burning tip of the wick looking like new. It should be a smooth tapered tip with no loose threads, jagged edges or carbon particles.

The wick should be cleaned with a wick cleaner every time the lamp is filled. I prefer the current plastic wick cleaners to the older versions. It is easy to use and does a better job than many of the earlier cleaners. The purpose of the cleaning is to knock off any deposits made by burning the lamp before they build up and 'cement' themselves to the tip of the wick.

Kerosene should be added to a lamp that has a dry wick at least 2 hours before lighting the wick. Do not let a lamp burn dry. This is very hard on the wick and will shorten its service life. Click to download instruction in pdf form.

Click to view full size image pdf format. A new mantle is coated with a flammable substance that provides strength to the mantle while it is being transported. Both Lox-On and Kone Kap mantles secure to the gallery by two locking tabs. When installing a mantle carefully follow the directions on the box and make sure that both tabs are engaged. The mantle will not burn correctly if only one of the tabs is attached and it takes several hours for the metal to cool down enough to properly reattach the mantle.

Here is a tip provided by Jim Race: "Just because a mantle is brand new out of the box, doesn't mean it's ready to work.

With the mantle installed on the lamp, but before it is flashed off, you should check for center alignment, by looking straight down through the hole in the top of the mantle, to see if it centers on the center hole of the flame spreader.